Under-Eye Hollows and Tear Troughs: What They Are and What Skincare Can Do

Quick answer: Tear troughs are a natural groove between the lower eyelid and the cheek. They become more visible when facial fat pads lose volume, skin thins with age, or bone structure gives less support. Skincare cannot replace lost volume, but hyaluronic acid, caffeine, peptides and retinol can visibly hydrate, smooth and strengthen the skin over the hollow, so it looks less shadowed.

Key Takeaways

• Under-eye hollows are mainly structural. They are caused by changes in volume, fat pads, bone and skin thickness, not just tiredness.
• Hollows are different from dark circles (pigment or visible blood vessels) and from puffiness (fluid or fat pushing forward).
• Skincare improves the quality of the skin above the hollow. It does not fill the groove.
• The most useful ingredients are hyaluronic acid, caffeine, peptides, retinol and daily SPF.
• Expect hydration from the first use and firmer-looking skin after 4 to 12 weeks of consistent use.

Products for the Under-Eye Area

• Caffeine Eye Cream - €12 - clinically proven to minimise the look of dark circles and puffiness from first use, with Matrixyl 3000 peptides
• Retinol Eye Cream - €16 - 3% Vitalease slow-release retinol to smooth the look of fine lines overnight
• Hyaluronic Acid Serum - €10 - 2% multi-molecular hyaluronic acid for instant hydration and plumper-looking skin
• Bio-Active Ceramide Moisturizer - €20 - strengthens the skin barrier and delivers 24-hour hydration
• Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 - €15 - daily broad-spectrum protection to help protect collagen

What Is a Tear Trough?

The tear trough is the groove that runs from the inner corner of the eye diagonally down and out towards the cheekbone. It sits where the lower eyelid meets the upper cheek, at the edge of the bony eye socket (the orbital rim). You may also see it called the nasojugal groove.

Every face has a tear trough. It only becomes a concern when the groove deepens, or when the skin and tissue around it can no longer smooth over it. The hollow then catches the light differently and casts a shadow, which makes the under-eye area look sunken or tired.

What Causes Under-Eye Hollows?

Volume loss with age

The face has several fat compartments that give it shape. From the mid-20s onwards, the fat pads under the eye and in the upper cheek slowly lose volume and move down. The smooth line from the lower lid to the cheek becomes a visible step, and the tear trough deepens.

Changes to the fat pads around the eye

The fat pads around the eye socket cushion the lower eyelid. When they shrink or shift, the bony rim underneath shows through more, and the hollow becomes more obvious.

Genetics and bone structure

Some people have visible tear troughs from a young age. A deeper-set or less projected orbital rim gives the skin less support. If your family members have them, yours are likely at least partly genetic.

Thinner skin and collagen decline

Under-eye skin is about 0.5mm thick, roughly a quarter of the thickness of cheek skin. As collagen and elastin decline, it becomes thinner and more see-through, so the hollow underneath is easier to see.

Sun exposure

UV exposure speeds up collagen breakdown and thins the skin around the eyes over time. This is why daily SPF matters even when your concern is structural.

Lifestyle factors

Dehydration, poor sleep and rapid weight loss can make hollows look deeper on a given day. They do not create the structural hollow. If it is still there when you are rested and hydrated, it is structural.

Under-Eye Hollows vs Dark Circles vs Puffiness

Hollows and tear troughs

• What it looks like: a sunken groove, with a shadow that changes with the light
• Main cause: volume loss, bone structure and thin skin
• Most helpful approach: hydration, peptides, retinol and SPF

Pigmented dark circles

• What it looks like: brownish, and still there when the skin is gently stretched
• Main cause: excess melanin
• Most helpful approach: brightening ingredients and SPF

Vascular dark circles

• What it looks like: bluish or purplish, and worse when tired
• Main cause: visible blood vessels under thin skin
• Most helpful approach: caffeine, plus skin-thickening ingredients

Puffiness and bags

• What it looks like: raised or swollen, often worse in the morning
• Main cause: fluid retention or fat pushing forward
• Most helpful approach: caffeine and a cool application

Quick self-check: Gently stretch the skin under your eye. If the darkness mostly disappears, it is likely a shadow from a hollow. If it stays, pigment or visible blood vessels are probably involved. Many people have more than one concern at once.

Can Skincare Fix Tear Troughs?

What skincare cannot do

• Rebuild lost fat pad volume
• Move fat pads that have dropped
• Fill the groove the way an injectable filler does

Skincare works on and in the skin. It does not reach the fat and bone that shape the tear trough.

What skincare can do

• Hydrate and plump the surface: well-hydrated skin looks smoother and better supported.
• Support firmer-looking skin over time: peptides and retinol help the skin look thicker and more resilient, so it conceals the hollow better.
• Reduce puffiness and shadowing: caffeine targets the fluid retention that makes a hollow look deeper by contrast.
• Protect what you have: daily SPF helps slow UV-related collagen breakdown.

For mild to moderate hollowing, this can make a real visible difference. For deeper hollowing, skincare works best alongside professional treatment, not instead of it.

Best Skincare Ingredients for Under-Eye Hollows

Hyaluronic acid: surface hydration

Hyaluronic acid draws water into the skin. Our Hyaluronic Acid Serum (€10) contains 2% multi-molecular hyaluronic acid. The larger molecules hydrate the surface and the smaller ones work on deeper layers. Apply it to damp skin for best results. It will not fill a tear trough the way filler does, but it does visibly smooth the skin above it.

Caffeine: depuffing and a brighter look

Caffeine helps reduce fluid retention, which lessens puffiness and the shadow that comes with it. Our Caffeine Eye Cream (€12) combines caffeine with Matrixyl 3000 peptides and Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract to reduce the look of under-eye fatigue. It is clinically proven to minimise the look of dark circles and puffiness from first use. Keep it in the fridge for an extra cooling morning boost.

Peptides: support for firmer-looking skin

Matrixyl 3000 is a well-studied peptide complex that signals skin to support its natural collagen. Over time this helps under-eye skin look firmer and smoother. You will find it in both the Caffeine Eye Cream and the Hyaluronic Acid Serum.

Retinol: long-term smoothing

Retinol speeds up skin renewal and helps skin look denser and smoother over time. Our Retinol Eye Cream (€16) uses 3% Vitalease, a slow-release retinol complex designed to be gentle around the eyes. Start with one or two nights a week and build up. Visible results usually appear from around 4 to 6 weeks. Retinol is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. The Caffeine Eye Cream is a pregnancy-safe alternative.

SPF: protecting your progress

Finish every morning with Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 (€15). It gives broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection with a hydrating, makeup-friendly finish.

Under-Eye Routine for Hollows

Morning

1. Cleanse with a gentle cleanser.
2. Hydrate: apply Hyaluronic Acid Serum to damp skin, including the under-eye area.
3. Eye cream: pat Caffeine Eye Cream around the eye contour with your ring finger.
4. Moisturise: Bio-Active Ceramide Moisturizer.
5. Protect: Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30.

Evening

1. Cleanse to remove SPF and makeup.
2. Hydrate: Hyaluronic Acid Serum on damp skin.
3. Eye cream: Retinol Eye Cream, one to two nights a week to start, building up as your skin adjusts.
4. Moisturise: Bio-Active Ceramide Moisturizer to lock in hydration and support the barrier overnight.

Application tips

• Use your ring finger and pat, never rub.
• Apply eye cream before moisturiser.
• Choose consistency over intensity. A simple routine you follow every day works better than a complicated one you follow sometimes.

When to See a Professional

Consider speaking to a qualified medical professional or registered aesthetic practitioner if:

• the hollow is clearly visible in all lighting, whether or not you are rested and hydrated
• three or more months of a consistent routine has not given you the result you want
• the hollowing appeared quickly, for example after weight loss or a change in health

Tear trough filler uses hyaluronic acid gel to restore volume. Results usually last 12 to 18 months, and the procedure should only be done by an experienced, qualified practitioner. Good skincare before, between and after treatments helps maintain results.